Title: "Dancing, Dying, Crawling, Crying: Stories of Continuity and Change in the Polynesian Community of Tikopia"
Author: Julian Treadaway
IPS Publications, University of the South Pacific
2007; Illustrated; 278 pages; US$18

Review by Dr. Tarcissius Tara Kabutaulaka

The island of Tikopia, for many people – even for many Solomon Islanders – is so far away that it seems like a mythical land; a place like Narnia, that magical land in C. S. Lewis’ classic, ‘The Chronicles of Narnia.’ Despite its remoteness – or maybe because of it – Tikopia, its people, and their cultures have long fascinated scholars, travelers, and casual observers.

But, unlike Narnia, where you can get to by simply walking into a wardrobe, to get to Tikopia you have to travel by boat for at least a week, and the journey is often uncomfortable. When you get there, be prepared to stay for a while because the next boat might not come for another six months. If that happens, don’t worry because you will surely be showered by the local’s hospitality. Also, unlike Narnia, there are no talking animals on Tikopia; only people making a living in the usual Tikopian style while trying to hold on to their customs in the face of globalization.

Julian Treadaway, the author of "Dancing, Dying, Crawling, Crying: Stories of Continuity and Change in the Polynesian Community of Tikopia" is one of those people captured by the alluring attraction of Tikopia. As a result, this Brit turned Solomon Islander has made a number of trips to the island in the past two decades. This book records his experiences, observations and reflections on Tikopia, its people, cultures and the changes that have occurred.

The book begins with a boat journey from Honiara. This was no ordinary journey. Rather, it was one with symbolic significance; it took the author from modern civilization to a society that seem to cling to another age – a place where the chiefs still command respect, where you crawl into houses, where ritual crying is an important part of ceremonies, where houses are built without nails, and where the spirits of the dead are forever present. To a casual observer, Tikopia may seem like a ‘pristine’ Polynesian society, unchanged since time immemorial. Some may even point to Tikopia as an example of the Noble Savage society that Jean-Jacques Rousseau alluded to.

It was partly Tikopia’s remoteness that attracted renowned anthropologist, Raymond Firth, who went to Tikopia in the 1920s and wrote eight volumes about the island, its people, and cultures. In many ways it is true that Tikopia has changed very little in the past two centuries. In this book, Julian comments on how many things in Tikopia are the same today as they were described by Firth in the 1920s and others, like Peter Dillion, Dumont D’Urville and John Colleridge Patterson who visited and wrote about the island in the 1800s.

This book, however, also stresses that many things have changed over the years and today Tikopians, like people elsewhere, are caught between their ancient traditions and the demand for change that comes with globalization. Julian comments that, while changes have always occurred on Tikopia, today the changes are more rapid and uncompromising. The agents of change include not only ‘outsiders’, but also Tikopians who left the island and then returned with new ideas and material goods: students, entrepreneurs, church leaders, former public servants, etc. Furthermore, Christianity, money, and videos have had a profound impact on the society. This book tells of the challenges of negotiating between the present and the past and of how distant lands, peoples, and cultures deal with the forces of globalization – a story that has resemblance elsewhere.

Tikopia’s story is complicated by the fact that many Tikopians have settled in other parts of the Solomon Islands, especially Makira, the Russell Islands, and Honiara. Many of the Tikopians born in these places have never been to Tikopia and there are many inter-marriages with other Solomon Islanders. The book tells of their quest to be Tikopian while living elsewhere.

This book is interesting and valuable, not only because of the story it tells, but also because of how it is written. Julian is a meticulous observer with a close eye for details and writes with an easy style. Originally from England, Julian has had a long association with Tikopians and his understanding and appreciation of their culture shows in this book. In 2000 – during the height of the Solomon Islands conflict – Julian was threatened by armed gangs in Honiara. He escaped to Tikopia, where in the safety of the island he reflected on and wrote parts of this book.

The only issue I have with the book is that it is sometimes unclear which years the author was writing about. Perhaps this is more a reflection of my lineal perception of time.

I recommend this book to anyone interested in cultures and social change. It would make valuable reading for high schools and for university courses designed to explore social and cultural changes in the Pacific Islands in particular and the world more generally. Apart from this, the book is valuable for anyone interested in knowing more about this tiny island perched on the southeastern tip of the Solomon Islands.

Although this book will not take you to Narnia, it will definitely inform you about a society that will continue to fascinate many of us.